To repair To fix Dry Hair Ends

1 Piece Of Straight Human Hair 100% Unprocessed Virgin Straight Weave HairI needed to anticipate the spackle on the walls to thoroughly dry before I “washedthem so I decided to go ahead and plan out the floor. The kit came with a 12×12 piece of 3/8 inch thick MDF meant for use for the floor. I will likely be making a base for this so I can meld it to the house but for now, I wanted to plan and layout something for the inside of the Conservatory.

I really dislike MDF…I’d rather use Gator board and even the paper-covered foamcore from the Dollar Store than deal with MDF. But because it was the fabric included, I bit the bullet and forged on.

There are two the reason why I hate MDF. First, it’s heavy. Second, it warps…badly. It just sucks up any available moisture if not sealed. I used a coat of white glue to seal the little little bit of MDF used on the walls but this was a large piece and I was in search of quick and simple.

I did have some spray sealer by Deft that I’ve used before but I didn’t want to set up the spray booth within the garage. I also happened upon some acrylic matte medium so I decided to see what happened if I brushed that on.

I slathered a light coat of it on both sides and all four edges and let it dry. I dried really quickly and left a slightly rough texture on the board. .. and no warping noted! I thought the “toothleft from the matte medium might help whatever I used for flooring stick better.

I set the dry fitted Conservatory walls on the bottom and penciled within the interior. I only wanted the inside done; I was planning something else for the exterior. I used to be looking through my stash of faux marble tiles and brick stenciling kits when i heard a “tsk/p>

“The inside of the Titania’s Conservatory is flagstone…like she saw in old castles on her trip to England as a child. I assumed you knew./p>

I turned with a question but Hester had flounced offI meant to ask about color. I am sure she’s going to advise me in time. Hopefully before I start painting.

So flagstone it is.

I didn’t have any Creative Paperclay and though it’s readily available in the US, I didn’t wish to make the trip into town to get some. I did have some white DAS air drying clay, however, which I bought at Michaels when my UK friends said Creative PaperClay was nearly impossible to get over there. I’d wanted to see if these things was comparable. It certainly is cheaper. It is made in Italy, which was all the knowledge I could get off the package because it was all in languages apart from English.

It is available in a 1 kilo (2.2 lb) package. I had the “white, though I would have called it grey…also comes in terra cotta. It is much heavier and denser than Creative PaperClay but it is not as sticky. It has a more leathery feel.

I tried rolling it out as I do PaperClay however it took more elbow grease.

I feel it might have run nicely through the pasta machine which I’ll do if I exploit it again. It also doesn’t “seamas nicely as PaperClay does if you’re piecing it…which I had to do for the floor.

Before I applied it, I brushed Elmer’s Glue All contained in the pencil line.

Lots of people don’t glue their air dry clay to the substrate but that is how I used to be taught to do it. I believe it helps with the shrinkage, though I didn’t notice much with this product. I rolled it out to 1/8 inch thick on my rolling board.

When it was all in place, I spritzed it lightly with water and covered it with a damp paper towel. As I worked, I folded the towel back, bit by bit. I didn’t notice much premature drying except on the very edges.

I used the identical tools as I exploit for PaperClay. The DAS is a little bit stiffer so I needed to press just a little harder but otherwise all of them worked fine.

It took so much longer to totally dry than PaperClay. I can usually paint PaperClay within 12 hours but this is going to be a good 24 hrs before I can do that.

The one cracking was where I had to seam it and only slightly. I filled that in with some lightweight spackle. I don’t yet know if will likely be apparent when painted.

Like PaperClay, it can shrink away from a cut edge. See where I made the groove a little deeper than I should have…where I didn’t cut through, the edges of the “flagstoneare fine.

I used about ½ of the package for the floor and sealed the rest in aluminum foil and put it in a freezer grade ziplock bag. I can usually “freshen upPaperClay that has gotten dry but I don’t know if that can work with this clay. The fact that it didn’t seam that well using water makes me think that it won’t. But sometime, I’ll try an experiment to see.

Overall, I like this product. Despite it’s odd smell when wet (I can only describe because the smell emitted by working machinery…like ozone..), it’s a pretty good substitute for Creative PaperClay. It was much less drying to my hands and required little clean-up as it really didn’t stick with my tools as PaperClay usually does.

But I will still use PaperClay, depending on the project. PaperClay is much lighter when dry.

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